A forthcoming workshop

I will be at Sassy Jacks Stitchery in North Carolins teaching three x 2 day workshops on August 16/17, 18/19 & 21/21. This informal “off the cuff” video talks about the sampler and the workshop. There are 1 or 2 places still available.

 


Are you sitting comfortably?

This morning we have a post from Tom Suddes, a golfing friend of my husband. During Tom’s naval career he was known as “Snaps” as he was the Queen’s official photographer when on board the Royal Yacht Brittania.

Tom is a great dinner party guest as he has some wonderful tales to keep us all entertained. The first time I met him and was seated next to him he was surprised when rather than asking him about the Queen and the Royal family I asked him about his “housewife”.

This is what he told me in his own words together with another story that touched me.

“I joined the Navy to see the world, what did we do? We learned to sew!”

I joined the Royal Navy in 1964 when I was 15 years and 1 month old, wow what an adventure!


I went first to HMS GANGES, a boys training establishment of 2000 boys on the River Stour near Harwich. For the next 12 months our time was divided between learning a trade, studying Maths, English, Mechanics and Naval History, but the best bits were playing sport, sailing and pulling (a naval term for rowing). This was great fun, although the training was very strict with little opportunity not to achieve.

On day two of this great adventure, we were introduced to washing our clothes by hand and began our instruction in sewing, yes sewing! Not what we expected. We were issued with our kit and every item was marked in black or white ink to ensure we didn’t ‘lose’ anything. Amongst the items issued, perhaps most unusual was the ‘housewife’, a small blue rolled-up piece of cotton with pockets containing all our sewing kit, complete with needles, thread and thimble.


So, we joined the Royal Navy and our first task was to chain stitch over our names on the housewife, using red embroidery cotton. At first this tedious task seemed silly and insignificant. We were expecting to handle fire arms, learn to march and throw ourselves into REAL military activities. But sewing?

This delicate work had to pass inspection, with very few first attempts meeting the high standard demanded by the instructor, a World War II veteran Chief Petty Officer who knew every trick in the book (and a few more besides!). As any seamstress will know, the ‘needlework’ demanded patience and great attention to fine detail. On hindsight, it is obvious that it was a cunning test to see who could use their hands, had the patience to tackle something new and different, to achieve the unthinkable – perfectly crafted chain stitch! You might think some would lose interest or give up but everyone was keen to succeed and the pressure was on; with needle in hand we persevered and eventually passed the test.

Some were hampered from the start, I remember one messmate by the name of Van Der Westhuizen. He was one of the smallest in the class and yet his name tallies were so long they were in two rows! At the same time what would ‘J Day’ do once he completed the task in record time? Would he volunteer to help his fellow mess mate? (Team spirit, an essential element to naval ethos and military life was never far away).

52 years later I still have my precious housewife with a number of rusty needles and little cotton, but no buttons left, The housewife is intact and I still have the thimble; the red chain stitching is still there too!!

“My first night away from home”

Picture the scene, some 40 young, 15 year old boys away from home, most for the first time, lying in single beds arranged in perfect line down both sides of the dormitory style mess deck. The floor is highly polished parquet tiles, there is a silver polished dustbin (never used) in the centre of the room, and everything is stowed away ship shape and ‘Bristol fashion’.

We had already received instructions on how to make our beds. White cotton sheets were to be fitted with pristine hospital corners, topped with squared off pillow cases, ‘itchy’ wool blankets that probably came off the Mary Rose, and all covered with an attractive blue and white counterpane sporting a large naval anchor embroidered in the centre (standard RN issue).

Our instructor, now in the twilight of his career, immaculately dressed in full naval uniform and cap is slowly pacing around the mess deck speaking in a loud, strong voice, complete with cockney accent. He is listing clear, concise instruction for tomorrow morning and what he demands of us.

We are lying on our backs, sheets pulled up to our chins, hands and arms by our sides, like sardines in a tin we are lying almost ‘to attention’ in bed. We hang on the instructors every word, keen to miss nothing, there is a great deal of anticipation in the air, we have just joined the Royal Navy.

“…and tomorrow morning you will awake at 0600 to ‘Call the Hands’ where you will go to the wash room to shave, shower and then dress in the Number 8 uniform you have just been issued with this evening. Having dressed, you will muster outside the mess deck on the parade ground ready for my inspection at 0630 before going to breakfast…..” boomed the Chief Petty officer with his imperious tone. But as he continued his dialogue, pacing around the room something caught his beady eye and his stopped in his stride……

”you Boy, what’s your name lad?” Said the instructor in a loud voice.

“Shaw, Sir” replied the startled young man, lying in bed.

“Shaw, eh?, well Shaw where’s your sheets and pillow case?”

Shaw looked shocked and replied in a weak, timid voice “Sheets Sir?”

“Yes, my son, your sheets and pillowcase, don’t you use sheets and pillowcases at home Shaw?” continued the Instructor with his intimidating voice and Cockney accent.

“No Sir” replied Shaw “we don’t have any at home”. At this point I have to highlight that some boys who joined the RN in the mid 1960’s were often from poor homes, orphanages and had joined the Service hoping to find ‘a family.’

Everyone in the mess deck is staring at Shaw and the instructor, thinking he must be in deep trouble, Day 1 and already not following instructions. I am certain the Instructor is bound to give him a clip ‘round the ear, take him outside or have some other form of ‘private conversation’.

I lie in great anticipation, eyes popping out like chapel hat pegs, waiting for the first ‘lesson’ in military training.

“Right Shaw, get out of bed” replied the instructor, but this time his voice was soft, friendly, encouraging and sympathetic.

We all anticipated the worst for Shaw. HMS GANGES had a reputation for being a very disciplined training establishment with the highest standards of behaviour and conduct.

But no; what followed was a brilliant lesson in HR which I remember to this day and which I took with me, and used, throughout my 46 years service.

“Right son” continued the Instructor, in a friendly, almost hushed and fatherly tone, “this is what we do every night when we make our beds, first you take a white sheet and put it on the bottom, like this, then on top you put another sheet. After one week, we take the bottom sheet off and wash it by hand. Don’t you worry about that, I’ll show you how to do that later. Then you put the top sheet on the bottom and the third spare sheet you have, that goes on the top, nice and clean like. OK?”

“Yes Sir” replied Shaw nervously.

“Then we put the pillow in this pillow case, makes it nice and soft on your face.” The Instructor continued to make the bed adding the itchy wool blankets and counterpane, tucking in the corners and edges, just so.

Shaw stands, dressed in his newly issued naval pyjamas, motionless but following the fatherly instructions.

“Now then my son, you just slip into your bed and see what it feels like”.

Shaw obeys and immediately a smile comes to his thin, pale face.

“Now how does that feel like? Nice and soft, better than those rough blankets, eh?” Invited the instructor.

“Yes Sir”

“Well now Shaw, every time you make your bed, you do it just as I showed you, and you and I will get along just fine, do you understand son?”

“Yes Sir”

And in a flash it was back to business.

“Right boys he resounded! Now, about tomorrow morning, when you muster on the parade ground…….” and off he went, back into auto, back into his strong, commanding voice, walking around the mess deck continuing his instructions one after the other.

We couldn’t believe our ears. Not at all what we expected to happen. Here I saw at first hand this experienced, long serving war veteran looking for the first opportunity to give a struggling beginner a helping hand. Clear instructions, followed by a simple demonstration and guidance for the future, superb.

I don’t know what happened to Shaw, whether he stayed in the Service or left for pastures greener. But, on reflection those first months of training were littered with other examples of good leadership, training and care. How lucky I was. Here is a picture of a typical messdeck at HMS GANGES in 1964.

 


Book Review

We were thrilled when we learnt that Nancy Nicholson was bringing out a new book called “Modern Folk Embroidery” published by David and Charles, and are quite privileged to see a preview of it.

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What a wonderful book it is, jammed packed with 30 inspirational projects including pin cushions, samplers pictures, cushions and a lovely folk doll that any child would love to own.

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It contains instructions of all the tools and materials needed to complete these wonderful projects. A very easy to understand Stitch Library of all the stitches needed to complete the projects.img_2389

 

What I like about the stitch library is that the stitches are all contained within each stitch family e.g. Button Hole Stitch Family. Each family of stitches shows drawings of stitches in that particular family along with beautiful photos of examples from the book where the stitches are used.

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All the projects in the book have full step by step instructions plus further suggestions that could be made by using other stitches in the book.

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What I also like is that the book also contains all the templates needed to complete each project at the end of the book.

Overall it is a wonderful book of 130 pages that every needlewoman would love to have amongst her craft books and they will find many projects that they would love to make. It would make a wonderful present for yourself or a wonderful Christmas present for friends.

Available in the UK from November 16th and the US from November 24th it can be pre-ordered from Amazon or other book sellers and needlework stores.

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A book review – Early Style Hardanger by Yvette Stanton

Very few of us become proficient at a craft by instinct. If we wish to learn we need to find out as much as we can about the materials we need; the tools to use and the correct way to use them. Needlework is not just a question of a needle and some thread, but of which needle and what kind of thread, and how to use them once chosen. There are a multitude of stitches and techniques to discover and master.

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I am a self taught needleworker and through Yvette’s earlier books I have become competent in Hardanger,  whitework and drawn thread work. I have come to appreciate the simple elegance of white on white. When there is no colour to distract, the pattern and texture formed by the stitching really comes to the fore.

I have been eagerly awaiting delivery of Yvette Stanton’s new book “Early Style Hardanger” since its publication was announced, and I have not been disappointed. This is a must have book for a needleworker’s library.

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Normally I dip into books but I have been totally enthralled from the 1st to the 160th page, all of which are packed with over 1500 colour photos and diagrams.

There is so much to enjoy including a fascinating section on the history of hardanger. I found the chapter comparing the early style Hardanger and the modern day version particularly interesting. Early-style Hardanger is quite distinct from contemporary Hardanger. This historical style of embroidery has traditionally been used on the women’s clothing in the Hardangerfjord region, and was designed to emulate needle-made lace of the 1600s and 1700s.

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The Projects chapter has 10 gorgeous projects that tempt. The small projects make wonderful learning pieces culminating in a traditional apron. The projects have well written finishing instructions and the pattern sheets come in a separate pack at the back on the book.

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The section on “Stitches and Techniques”  opens with “where to start” which explains how to read a chart, the stitching order and how to find the starting point, all important basics that can often be overlooked.

Yvette guides the reader through this comprehensive section with right and left handed step by step stitch and technique instructions that are extremely clear and easy to follow supplemented by well drawn out illustrations.

Early Style Hardanger is now one of my “go-to” stitch reference books and can be found on my “special shelf” within arm’s reach of my stitching station.

The book is now available through needlework stores, and direct from  YVETTE.

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Yvette Stanton is the publisher and designer behind Vetty Creations. Yvette is a highly respected tutor accredited by the Embroiderers Guild of NSW, and teaches embroidery classes, specialising in whitework at shops and guild groups around Australia.

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Finding Elizabeth

Antique samplers combine our love of needlework and history and one of the first things we do when spotting a sampler is to run the stitcher’s name through Google and Ancestry. So many of these girls died young, often in childbirth, but there are a few that through clues left in their sampler tell a fascinating story and take you on a journey through a family’s history.

When we first started to research Elizabeth Furniss we found that we did not have enough information to say with certainty that we had the “right” girl. There are several girls with varying spellings of her name in the period we were looking at.

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Through an exchange of information this weekend on a Facebook group and a posting of a photograph of Ann Wright’s sampler we were able to find the right “Elizabeth”.

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As you can see on Ann’s sampler the apple tree, the figures of Adam and Eve and the pastoral scene are almost identical to Elizabeth’s.

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Ann’s sampler tells us that she was born in 1836 and that she stitched her sampler at Darnall School. The school was in the Township of Attercliffe cum Darnall in Sheffield, Yorkshire, England.

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The 1841 census shows an “Ann Wright” of the right age (-/+ 1 year) living in Lead Mill Row Sheffield, just over a mile away from Darnall School. Focusing on this area I found an “Elizabeth Furniss” of the correct age living less than 1 mile away in 3 Shude Hill.

I was confident that we had found our stitcher but there were further leads to follow through. A few weeks ago I stumbled across another sampler, stitched by Eliza Powell, that shared many of the same motifs with Elizabeth’s sampler.

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Eliza’s sampler tells us that she was born in 1813 (-/+ 1 year). This was a very popular name in the period but now being able to focus on Sheffield an “Eliza” of the right age was found on the 1841 census.

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Eliza lived in Ellens Yard, off Arundel Street which is less that 1 mile from Elizabeth in Shude Hill and even closer to Ann in Lead Mill Row.

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The Grammar School that appeared in her sampler can be found close by. It had only just been built, maybe that is why she included it in her sampler. The school was for boys.

There is another similar sampler to be considered in our research, Sarah Ann Downend.

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The sampler has been reproduced by The Scarlet Letter. Image from The Scarlet Letter Year Gallery

The sampler has no clues to age or area but searching through Sheffield birth records a girl of this name was christened in 1815 in the Cathedral which is a stone’s throw from Shude Hill

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There was one further sampler to investigate. Esther Charleton has two houses and Adam & Eve figures that are very similar to those in Elizabeth’s sampler. There is also a pastoral scene where one of the sheep appears to be identical.

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The sampler has been reproduced by The Scarlet Letter. Image from The Scarlet Letter Year Gallery

Esther’s sampler told us her age and a search quickly showed that she was also christened in the Cathedral.

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We now had five girls who lived within 1 square mile of each other. Based on this I think it reasonable to say that the girls shared the same needlework teacher and all probably attended Darnall School (assuming that the teacher taught in the same school between 1816 and 1844). Elizabeth, Eliza and Ann were not christened in the Cathedral so I do not believe that they attended the same Sunday School.

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Key: A – Darnall School, B – Shude Hill (Elizabeth Furniss), C – Lead Mill Row (Ann Wright), D – The Cathedral (Esther Charleton & Sarah Ann Downend), E – Arundel Street(Eliza Powell).

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Through a trade directory I have managed to find several school mistresses who taught in the area and I plan to research the names.

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If you know of any further samplers that share characteristics with Elizabeth Furniss or have any knowledge about Darnall School, please let us know.

Here are some samplers found in Sheffield Museum’s collection. Images copyright Sheffield Museum

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Note the same mis-spelling of “canvassJ1956_75 SH546

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Since publishing this post I have received photographs from readers of other Sheffield samplers and have started a PINTEREST board. If you know of any other samplers that have similar motifs please will you pass them onto us so that we may add them to our database.

TRIVIA

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Shude Hill passing under Commercial Street Bridge.

Elizabeth lived in the block of houses to the left.

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Marsh Brothers, Steel Manufacturers, Pond Works, Shude Lane

Marsh Brothers, Steel Manufacturers, Pond Works, Shude Lane.

Elizabeth’s home would have looked out onto Soho Mills and Pond Works.

Lead Mill also known Marriott Wheel when used as a cutlers grinding wheel in the 1700s, River Sheaf

Lead Mill and the River Sheaf.

Traffic sign for the A61 at the junction of Paternoster Row and Leadmill Road, premises of Arthur Davy and Sons, Provision Merchants, in background

The junction of Paternoster Row and Leadmill.

Was “The Towers”  the inspiration for Elizabeth, Sarah and Esther’s house, note the trees.

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The Cathedral in Sheffield.

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A Visit – Part 2

Yesterday we looked at church vestments and the work of the Truro Cathedral’s Sewing Guild. The guild also cares for the altar cloths at the Cathedral.

Altar cloths are  used by many religious groups as a sign of respect towards the holiness of the altar, as in the Catholic Church.

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Cloths can also be used to protect the altar surface or to beautify the altar.

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The use of altar-cloths goes back to the early centuries of the Roman Catholic Church. By the fourth century, during the celebration of Holy Communion, the altar was covered with a white linen cloth. Symbolically, the cloths represent the purity and the devotion of God’s Faithful, and the linens in which the body of Christ was wrapped when he was laid in the tomb.

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In the Roman Catholic Church the custom of using three altar-cloths began in the ninth century. The reason  being that if the Precious Blood should by accident be spilt it might be absorbed by the altar-cloths before it reached the altar-stone. There are four symbolic colors: red, white, violet and green, while black is sometimes used for funerals.

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Red symbolizes the color of fire to represent the Holy Spirit on the Day of Pentecost and times when the work of the Holy Spirit is emphasized. During Holy Week it represents the blood of Christ. Red is also used for ordinations, church anniversaries and civil observances such as Memorial Day and Thanksgiving.

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At Truro Cathedral there is a magnificent red altar cloth “The Angels and the Censer” which I was able to study in close detail on my visit.

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I am trying to find out more about the altar cloth, when it was made and who did the originally embroidery. I will be visiting the Courtney Library shortly to carry out some further research. I do, however, know that the altar cloth was repaired in more recent years by Sheila Landi of The Landi Company.

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If you are interested in textile conservation Landi’s book “The Textile Conservator’s Manual” is worth adding to your library.

Truro Cathedral has some altar cloths on permanent display. (The photographs have been taken through glass)

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Besides the grandeur of the Gothic architecture and the magnificence of the stained glass windows there is much to see at the Cathedral. Tucked away in a small corner of the Cathedral next to the books of remembrance is a small sampler – on every visit I take time to read it and say a prayer.

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TRIVIA

For over nine hundred years, Cornwall was part of the Diocese of Exeter. The sheer size of that Diocese meant that the Bishop of Exeter was a rare visitor west of the Tamar, and there was a growing pressure from the leading Cornish Anglicans during the nineteenth century to create a separate diocese for Cornwall.

In 1877, after 30 years of intense lobbying, the Cornish Diocese was re-established at Truro. The Diocese of Truro covers the whole of Cornwall and the Isles of Scilly plus two parishes in Devon!

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The site chosen in Truro for the Cathedral was where the Parish Church of St Mary’s stood. Since at least 1259, and probably before, there has been a Parish Church of St Mary located on this site. When Truro was chosen it was assumed that the Parish Church would be completely demolished to make way for the Cathedral. However, the architect John Loughborough Pearson, argued and eventually gained permission to keep at least part of the old Parish Church. He cleverly incorporated the South Aisle of the church into his design for the new Cathedral.

Truro Cathedral was the first cathedral to be built on a new site since Salisbury was started in 1220.

Edward White Benson was the first Bishop of Truro (1877 – 1883). He was previously Headmaster of Wellington College and then Chancellor of Lincoln Cathedral. It was his vision and energy that really established the new Diocese of Truro and the building of this wonderful Cathedral. From 1883 until his death in 1896 he was Archbishop of Canterbury. In 1880 Bishop Benson created the ‘Service of Nine Lessons and Carols’ which for over 120 years has formed part of the Cathedral’s traditional worship on Christmas Eve.

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A Visit – Part 1

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On a recent visit to Truro Cathedral in Cornwall, England I found a small group of dedicated needleworkers busy sewing new vestments. The Cathedral Sewing Guild meets weekly to maintain and repair the robes, embroideries and hassocks.

Over the years the Guild has made vestments, collection bags, cushions, kneelers, gowns for St Mary’s Singers, and carried out numerous adjustments to the choristers cassocks.

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They work in the Cathedral as besides the good light and space available it enables visitors to witness their work and ask questions.

Church embroidery opens up a whole new field of needlework to be explored. As the the V&A’s autumn exhibition Opus Anglicanum: Masterpieces of English Medieval Embroidery, draws nearer now is a good time to find out more.

The Cathedral of the Blessed Virgin Mary  is an Anglican cathedral located in the city of Truro, Cornwall, England. The “uniform” used in the Cathedral is known as a Set. (Images used are taken from different periods, denominations and countries).imageCHASUBLE: This is the principal vestment, worn by the President (the officiating priest). It was originally circular with a hole for the head but is now open at the side like a tabard.

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DALMATIC: A short robe with large, full sleeves and often highly ornamented, which is worn by the Deacon (this originated in Dalamtia, hence the name.

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TUNICLE: Shorter than the Dalmatic and less richly ornamented; it is worn by the Gospel Clerk (who carries the Gospels) and the Crucifer (who carries the Processional Cross)

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STOLE: A band worn like a scarf; it is a symbol of priesthood and represents the yoke of Christ.

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BURSE: A flat square of stiffened silk which holds the Corporal, (the cloth on which are placed the communion vessels)

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VEIL: A square of silk, which covers the chalice on the altar.

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Liturgical colours are specific colours used for vestments and hangings within the context of Christian liturgy. The symbolism of violet, white, green, red, gold, black, rose and other colours may serve to underline moods appropriate to a season of the liturgical year or may highlight a special occasion.

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On my visit to the Cathedral I was fortunate to be taken down into the Crypt and allowed to see the vestments.

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TRIVIA

There are some regional exceptions to the Liturgical colours.

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Blue, a colour associated with the Virgin Mary, is permitted for the feast of the Immaculate Conception in Spain and in some dioceses in Portugal, Mexico, and South America. In the Philippines, it is authorised for all feasts of the Virgin Mary, a practice followed in some other places without official warrant. There have also been uses of blue in place of violet for the season of Advent despite the fact that this practice is prohibited under liturgical law.

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White or cloth of gold was traditionally used for the Novena from 16 to 24 December according to a Spanish custom abolished in that country in the 1950s, but still widely observed in the Philippines. White is also used for East Asian Masses for the dead, as white is the traditional colour of mourning in many of the region’s cultures.

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Violet or black are often permitted on national holidays honoring military dead. For example in Canada, they are used on Remembrance Day.

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Gold or silver may be worn on more solemn occasions in the Dioceses of the United States.

 

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A free cross stitch chart

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We are delighted to offer our clients and newsletter subscribers this charming free cross stitch CHART which Rosella has stitched so beautifully and finished into a pillow.

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This keepsake would make a charming gift for a needlework friend or for your own bowl of pillows.

A big thank you to Rosella, your stitching is exquisite.

 

The inspiration for the design has come from our reproduction of the HANNAH COATES sampler. 

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We are looking forward to seeing your chosen colours, the words you stitch and how you finish Sandra’s design so please share some photos with us. If you click the graph it will enlarge. ENJOY !!

Thie Work I've Done

 

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Old Samplers and Tapestry Embroideries

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In March 1900, an exhibition called ‘Old Samplers and Tapestry Embroideries’ was held at the Fine Art Society’s rooms, London. The exhibition was curated by Marcus Bourne Huish and a Mrs. Head, who gave details about techniques and stitches.

The exhibition was divided into three sections: examples of embroidery under the general heading of ‘Pictures in imitation of tapestry,’ then over 350 samplers together with items such as book covers, garments, caskets, purses, and so forth, which were embroidered by those who had learnt the art of sampler making or were using samplers as guides for their work. There were samplers from every decade since the mid-seventeenth century. Many of the items on display came from Huish’s own collection.

A small catalogue with the same name accompanied the exhibition. The catalogue was twelve pages long. Soon after, the catalogue was expanded by Huish into an extended study called Samplers and Tapestry Embroideries (1900; London: Longmans, Green and Co.). This book was reprinted in 1913 as an enlarged version that included extra information, especially about American samplers.

This book has become a classic source of information about the history of British, European and North American samplers.

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A digital copy of the 2nd edition can be enjoyed HERE

Marcus Huish was born in 1843 in Castle Donington, Leicestershire (England), the son of Marcus Huish (a solicitor) and Margaret Jane Bourne. In 1862, at the age of 18, Marcus Bourne Huish went to Trinity Hall, Cambridge University, where he studied law. Huish was called to the bar in 1867 and became a barrister. He married Catherine Mary Winslow in 1878 and they had one daughter, Margaret Dorothy Huish (born in 1879). Huish was very involved in the art world, especially Japanese art, and published several books on the subject. He became a part-time art dealer.

In the early 1880’s he retired from the law and became the editor of The Art Journal (editor: 1883-1891). He was also Director of the Fine Arts Society and chairman of the Japan Society (London; 1879-1911). His work with Japanese art and culture was recognised by the Japanese government by the awarding of the rank of Chevalier of the Order of the Sacred Treasure. In addition, he was made a Knight of the Order of the Crown of Italy for his part in organising the British section of the International Art Exhibition, in Venice (Italy; later called the Venice Biennale) in 1909.

At some point Huish started to collect samples and samplers and it would appear his large collection included early seventeenth century English examples, as well as Dutch, French, German, Indian, Italian, Scandinavian and other forms.

Huish died in 1921 in Kensington, London.

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It’s not Cosmopolitan !

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Magazines have been a part of American culture since American Magazine was first published in colonial America.

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Peterson’s and Godey’s dominated the 19th century American women’s magazine industry.

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Launched in 1842 Peterson’s included a combination of literature, sewing patterns, craft projects, recipes, domestic advice, fashion plates – both colored and black and white and all sorts of advertising.

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Using their European counterparts as inspiration, the American editors sought to present the current fashion trends in a more Americanized manner. Plates from French magazines were often copied and modified to suit the more “modest” American tastes.

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We thought for today’s post it would be interesting for you to “read” the June 1883 edition of  PETERSONS LADYS NATIONAL MAGAZINE    It’s more Good Housekeeping than Cosmopolitan !

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A new release – Hannah Coates 1848

We are very excited to launch our third release today – Hannah Coates 1848. When we stumbled across this charming English sampler our hearts skipped a beat. We have had so much pleasure reproducing her, we hope that you will enjoy her too.

Just click Hannah’s photograph to find out more about her.

 


Did Henry VIII Embroider?

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Now that is an interesting question and something that we had not given any thought to before watching this VIDEO which looks at the Royal School of Needlework.

We know that many English queens, queen consorts and princesses were enthusiastic embroiderers and that Kings and Queens wore elaborately embroidered and embellished garments. But have you ever heard of a King that embroidered?

In June 1539 the French Ambassadors Marillac to Montmerency wrote:-

“The King, who in some former years has been solitary and pensive, now gives himself up to amusement. He evidently delights now in painting and embroidery

We know that Henry commissioned many great tapestries and his palaces were lavishly furnished but it is hard to imagine the King sat stitching away with a hoop and needle in those large hands.

 

 

 

 


A TV programme about samplers

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One of the most exquisite band samplers to be seen at Witney Antiques is from the mid  17th century. It was stitched using silks with intense shades of blue, green and red. Previously it belonged to Emma-Henrietta Schiff von Suvero an Austrian Jewess. Following a forced sale by the Nazis it was held in what is now  the Museum of Applied Arts in Vienna unseen for seventy years.

The sampler, together with several others, was featured in a talk given by Joy Jarrett for Antiques TV.

For anyone who has an interest in samplers this is a must watch video (probably more than once).

Witney Anitiques is holding an exhibition this summer where their extensive collection can be viewed. Please see a previous POST for details.

 

 

 


In safe hands ?

We all use textiles in one form or another on a daily basis.   We are wrapped in them when we are born, they cushion our feet, they provide us with warmth whilst we sleep. They are carefully crafted into garments worn for important rites of passage, such as christenings, bar mitzvahs, and weddings.

PHILADELPHIA - OCTOBER 1: Princess Diana's wedding gown is displayed at a preview of the traveling "Diana: A Celebration" exhibit at the National Constitution Center on October 1, 2009 in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. The exhibit, not shown in the U.S. since 2007, opens tomorrow and continues through December 31. (Photo by William Thomas Cain/Getty Images)

Textiles adorn our walls and decorate our homes. A wide range of textiles are passed down through families and institutions, and with it comes the responsibility of caring for them.

The textiles we collect and preserve will generally fall into two categories –  those that we display and those that we use in a limited way such items as wedding and christening gowns.

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In using and collecting textiles it is important to pass these items onto the next generation in the best possible condition.

Eventually they will become too fragile to use, or may be damaged beyond repair for the damage to be reversed even by the hands of a conservator.

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Textiles that are displayed in homes and public buildings are subject to deterioration by many environmental factors such as light, temperature and relative humidity, dust and dirt, insects, and improper storage or display.

The critical factors in maintaining your textile collection are control of environmental conditions, proper display techniques, and proper storage.

Whilst the standards museums strive for are not feasible in the home I still thought, in my naivety,  that I was caring for my collection of antique samplers in a responsible way.

One of the greatest threats to textiles is light. The worst damage is caused by ultraviolet (UV) radiation from natural daylight. I knew that it was important  to  display my samplers  out of direct sunlight and for limited periods of time. I had been advised that I should rotate them every four months allowing them to “rest” in proper storage for the remainder of the year.

What I hadn’t realized was that the same level of damage could be caused by fluorescent light bulbs. I am now re-looking at the way I light my home

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While the UV rays damage most rapidly, the entire light spectrum causes textile dyes to fade and the fibers to become brittle. This includes plain incandescent interior lighting. There is some protection in keeping window shades pulled down or shutters closed during the sunniest times of the day. UV filtering materials or films can be placed over windows and fluorescent bulbs.

Other important factors to consider are high temperatures and humidity as they accelerate the deterioration of textiles and provide a climate for insects, mould, and mildew.

A climate of 65-70°F and 50-55% relative humidity is best with as little fluctuation as possible.

Air pollution is also an enemy of textiles. Fumes from vehicles and industry affect some dyes. Dirt and dust is a problem as dust particles act like small knives, cutting into fibers as the textiles expand and contract in response to changes in humidity. A regular schedule of inspection and vacuuming is necessary to maintain your collection.

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If you add a sampler to  your collection before bringing it into your home inspect it carefully including the frame. You do not want insect pests contaminating your other samplers or textiles. If you see clumps of eggs or even an odd egg beware of cross-contamination.

Embroidered samplers can “yellow” as they age, often so much that they appear a dirty brown colour.

This is a combination of the natural degradation of sampler material and the acidic backboards they were mounted on.

This acidity accumulates over the years, not only yellowing, but also adding to the fragility of the samplers and the degradation of their appearance.

Samplers benefit from being cleaned by a trained conservator – the washing treatment will remove acidic products. The reduction of the yellowing will make the sampler look fresher and will make it more stable for the future.

A conservator can stabilise and secure holes and loose threads but the fading of the threads cannot be reversed.

The conservator will be able to re-frame your sampler using conservation grade materials that are acid free and cause no adverse pressure or environmental effects on the sampler.

We are custodians of the needlework of yesteryear and we have a responsibility to ensure that the needlework and textiles in our care are passed onto the next generation in the best possible condition.


A token of affection

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The Victorian era, 1837-1901, is characterised as the domestic age par excellence, epitomised by Queen Victoria, who came to represent a kind of femininity which was centred on the family, motherhood and respectability. Accompanied by her beloved husband Albert, and surrounded by her many children in the sumptuous but homely surroundings of Balmoral Castle, Victoria became an icon of late-19th-century middle-class femininity and domesticity.

Indeed, Victoria came to be seen as the very model of marital stability and domestic virtue. Her marriage to Albert represented the ideal of marital harmony. She was described as ‘the mother of the nation’, and she came to embody the idea of home as a cosy, domestic space. When Albert died in 1861 she retreated to her home and family in preference to public political engagements.

Queen Victoria was a supporter and promoter of embroidery and domestic crafts.

 

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There is a very interesting video on Royal baby clothing at the Museum of London that includes a pair of shoes that Queen Victoria embroidered.

Following Victoria’s lead the middle and upper class ladies devoted much of their time to needlework which had evolved from a craft to a feminine accomplishment which signified gentility.

Idleness was considered frivolous and profitable use of a lady’s time was morally important. Fancywork was a display of genteel industry.

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In the 19th century the creation and giving of a handmade gift was the ultimate expression of feminine arts and an important ritual.

Embroidered gifts were made for births, marriages and birthdays. They were also given to celebrate the New Year. Fancywork manuals and magazine devoted sections to the production of the homemade gift. Godey’s Lady’s Book in 1847 advised their readers

“Not the most costly present bought with money would be so highly prized as the delicate trifle made by the fair hand that presents it”

Queen Victoria’s childhood diary notes that she gave a pin cushion to her governess and and received a pincushion from her maid. When she became Queen she continued to make needlework gifts. All her daughters handmade gifts for family birthdays and Christmas.

The Lady’s Manual of Fancywork (1859) lists suitable items for presents. A pdf of the BOOK is available to view.

Despite its age it is still an interesting book packed full of information on “Ornamental Embroidery”

Today in the age of commercialism when stores are constantly promoting gifts for one holiday or another it is easy to overlook the importance of the homemade gift.The pleasures of giving and receiving homemade gifts are many. They are a gift of affection, imagination and creativity. Gifts that show time was put into them are the most meaningful.

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I had great delight this weekend to open a surprise package that contained a pin cushion that has been exquisitely cross stitched. Much thought and time had gone into creating the cushion and it will be treasured as a token of affection.


Jane Austen’s Sewing Box

Whilst researching the Bronte Samplers yesterday I discovered a book that was published in 2009 – Jane Austen’s Sewing Box – Craft Projects and Stories from Jane Austen’s Novels by Jennifer Forest

 

All well-bred Regency ladies aspired to be highly accomplished. They painted tables, covered screens, and netted purses as Austen’s character Charles Bingley matter-of-factly describes in Pride and Prejudice (among other talents), all to allure and secure husband.

Women of this era were great at handiwork – sewing, drawing and trimming bonnets. Author Jennifer Forest has researched Regency crafts compiling this lovely volume of projects to turn you into the accomplished woman that even Mr. Darcy might admire. (Publisher’s description) Jane Austen’s Sewing Box opens a window into the lives of Regency women during a beautiful period in arts, crafts and design. Jennifer Forest examines Jane Austen’s novels and letters to reveal a world where women are gripped by crazes for painting on glass and netting purses, economise by trimming an old bonnet, or eagerly turn to their sewing to avoid an uncomfortable conversation. Based on Jane Austen’s novels and with illustrated step-by-step instructions for eighteen craft projects, this beautifully presented book will delight Jane Austen fans, lovers of history and literature and craft enthusiasts alike. Murdoch Books, ISBN: 978-1741963748


Musings from an English Church

If you visit an English Church you are sure to see hand embroidered kneelers a plenty made by the good ladies of the parish.

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These kneelers are stitched in wool yarn with a style of embroidery known as Berlin wool work “BWW” – a style of embroidery similar to needlepoint. The two most common stitches found in BWW are cross stitch and tent stitch although Beeton’s book of Needlework (1870) describes 15 different stitches for use in BWW. Coloured beads are sometimes added to accent a design.

An interesting stitch used in BWW is the Surrey stitch which creates a thick three dimensional pile that adds a richness and reality to floral designs. It is a form of turkey work which we occasionally see in the reproduction samplers we love to stitch.

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A good tutorial is available from the needlepoint teacher and can be watched HERE

BWW was developed in Germany in the 19th century and was based on hand painted cross stitch charts that were worked with a very soft wool that was spun in the city of Saxe-Gotha. The wool was taken to Berlin, where it was dyed in brilliant, large colour palettes. This was possible due to the discovery of aniline dyes.

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Artists in Berlin soon began to develop charts and classic paintings were copied onto canvas in squares of colour together with original designs of flowers and geometric shapes.

“Point” paper (graph paper using 1 square to the inch) was used to show coloured blocks that corresponded to the squares on the canvas. Before this, colours had been shown by codes and patterns that were printed using copper plates. A very expensive process.

Now the embroiderer could follow a coloured graph by counting lines, squares, and stitches on a blank canvas. A new canvas was created that had parallel threads crossing at larger intervals, and that innovation was followed by the inclusion of a blue line placed vertically at intervals of 5 or 10 threads to help the stitcher count.

The wool used for Berlin work was softer than crewel thread, which was wiry and twisty, and strands of woven crewel thread were very difficult to separate. Berlin wool was manufactured for knitting as well as embroidery.

Eventually, Berlin wool was produced in Yorkshire by blending German and English wool. English needleworkers preferred a softer colour palette to the brilliant German colours.
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BWW became very popular in Victorian England and soon homes were full of durable and long-lived pieces of embroidery that could be used as furniture covers, fire screens, cushions, bags and clothing. Our churches too with the kneelers for the church pews which started my musing on Berlin wool work.


Now While My Hands Are Thus Employed – Three Centuries of Historic Samplers

 

A NOTE FOR YOUR DIARY

To coincide with the London season of fine art and antique fairs commencing 24th June – July 7th 2016, WITNEY ANTIQUES have decided to hold an exhibition of historic samplers in their Oxfordshire showrooms and extend to all a warm welcome.
The exhibition will run from:
Sunday June 26th 2-5 pm and Monday June 27th to July 17th 2016 from 10am – 5pm daily.

‘ Now While My Hands Are Thus Employed’
Three Centuries of Historic Samplers

A full colour catalogue illustrating around fifty samplers will be available from June 1st 2016.
Many of these historic pieces are from private collections and all will be for sale.
The exhibition will cut across all levels of society embracing both the affluent and the poor and stands as a testament to the skill and perseverance of the young and their talented teachers. Whether worked with a view to future employment, for pleasure or in order to be the mistress of a large household, they illuminate the lives of girls and young women going back over 300 years.
Their stock of rare 17th Century embroidery will also be on view.
Admission is free. For those of us attending The Feller Tour on July 6th a visit to the exhibition could easily be combined.

 

Witney Antiques have changed their email address to specialist@witneyantiques.com


Elizabethan Stitches – Jacqui Carey

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One of our favourite needlework books at Hands Across the Sea Samplers is Elizabethan Stitches by Jacqui Carey. Mary Corbet did a wonderful in depth review of the book when it was released in 2012 and described it as one of the “You Definitely Need This” books, whether you’re a fan of historic English needlework or simply a surface embroiderer who is interested in all kinds of stitches and their applications!

Here is the link to her review.

http://www.needlenthread.com/2012/03/elizabethan-stitches-jacqui-carey.html

 

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Living in a remote part of Cornwall on England’s most southerly tip it is rare (rarer than hen’s teeth) for a course to be available and close by  that catches Nicola’s attention. She couldn’t believe it when she discovered that not only does Jacqui Carey live in the next County (still a five hour round trip) but she runs courses from her home.

 

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Together with some friends Nicola will be attending a course in April on Elizabethan Stitches – she is beyond excited. There is so much that is to be learnt about these stunning stitches from the period.

 

VLUU L310W L313 M310W / Samsung L310W L313 M310W

 

 

https://www.careycompany.com/elizabethan-stitches-21st-and-22nd-april-2016-deposit

Elizabethan Stitches

Jacqui Carey’s analysis of old textiles has revealed that ‘modern’ stitches are structurally different to the ones found on late 16th & early 17th century objects. Therefore the techniques used in this era were also different. During the workshop, Jacqui will share her extensive research work by discussing actual examples dating from this period (lots of lovely photographs, but sadly no actual artefacts).
Students will learn about the historical context of the embroidery, before trying their hand at some of the stitches, and starting work on their own ‘spot’ sampler.
For the historic embroiderer, this was a material ‘sketch book’ that allowed them to test and record ideas. Spot samplers were a visual storehouse of motifs, patterns, ideas, colour ways and stitch textures, and as such were a valued resource. Students who would prefer to work towards a finished product have the option of using their sample stitching as the start of a small item such as a purse or ‘sweet bag’.

The workshop will start with an illustrated talk that will set the historical scene. It will include a discussion of the detective work involved in gathering evidence, and the delights and challenges of doing object-based research. Students will then have the opportunity to explore historic design sources, and discover how the embroiderer transferred and interpreted them.
Practical work will cover the instruction for several period stitches. These will include some needlepoint, plaited braid stitches, and punto in aria (stitches in air). Students will make a large-scale sample in order to understand the construction of each stitch, before embarking on smaller scale production, as part of a design worked onto their spot sampler, or purse.


Emma at 200 – An Exhibition celebrating Jane Austen

 

This year is the bicentenary of the publication of Jane Austen’s novel Emma. It was published by John Murray II on 23 December 1815, with 1816 on the title page. In March Chawton House Library  will be launching an exhibition to commemorate this landmark in Jane Austen’s publishing career.

Items from the Chawton collection, and the Knight family collection  will be used to talk about the world of the novel and its reception through the nineteenth, twentieth and twenty-first centuries.

It has been suggested that Donwell Abbey in Emma was modelled on Chawton House.

An entire room of the exhibition is going to be devoted to the topic of female accomplishments – music, painting and, of course, needlework – which readers of the novel will know loom large in this, as in all, Austen’s novels.

Embroidery from the Great Lady’s Magazine Stitch Off will be on show at the exhibition.

The exhibition runs from 21 March to 25 September 2016.

Chawton House Library is an internationally respected research and learning centre for the study of early women’s writing from 1600 to 1830. Access to the library’s unique collection is for the benefit of scholars and the general public alike. Set in the quintessentially English manor house that once belonged to Jane Austen’s brother, Edward.


The Great Lady’s Magazine is having a Stitch Off

 

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They want to recreate and bring back to life a handful of some of the hundreds of embroidery patterns the Lady’s Magazine (1770-1832) published every month over the course of its 62-year run.

They want to learn from your experiences about the challenges and pleasures of ‘work’, as it would have been known at the time, that would have occupied many of the magazine’s readers.

For more information please follow this link https://blogs.kent.ac.uk/ladys-magazine/2016/02/04/the-great-ladys-magazine-stitch-off-faqs/


Sold at auction February 23rd 2016 for £5.500 GBP plus premium

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Auctioneers description – A fine embroidered pictorial sampler, English, dated 1711, the fine wool ground entirely covered in ivory silk Gobelin stitch, with large central pot of blooms initialled ‘S.B.’ surrounded by large floral slips, insects, birds, and animals including a hare and a dalmation, 31 by 26cm, 12 by 10 1/4in within glazed frame

CONDITION REPORT:
Colours are good, wear and faint discoloration to very outer edges. Good condition

 

We believe the main stitch is Queen or Rococo Stitch rather than Gobelin.

Antique needlework Queen Stitch Rocco Stitch

Antique needlework Queen Stitch Rocco Stitch


The Broderers Of St Paul’s Cathedral

 

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At Hands Across the Sea Samplers we love to learn something new every day about embroidery and we eagerly devored an interesting article in Spitalfields Life about the Broderers of St Paul’s Cathedral.

 

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If you climb the 141 steps to a windowless chamber high up in a tower of St Paul’s Cathedral you will find The Broderers of St Pauls. The 14 needleworkers  are currently busy restoring of a banner of St Barnabas.

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The full article can be found here  Spitalfields Life

Occasionally there are opportunities to join the Broderers, so if you have embroidery, dressmaking or mending skills and would be interested in becoming a Broderer please email khart@stpaulscathedral.org.uk

 


A Pin for Every Purpose

 

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I have been on the hunt for stainless steel rust proof pins to remount an antique sampler.

 

I have been surprised to find I am struggling to source some in the UK.

 

A search of the internet threw up a very interesting article on the subject of pins that is well worth a read and bookmarking for future reference.

 

Click A PIN FOR EVERY PURPOSE

 

Which brand of pins do you recommend for mounting a sampler?

 


A Thank You

Hands Across the Sea Samplers have been deeply touched by the support they have received in launching their new venture. Nicola and Sandra want to thank every one of you and we have a small thank you gift for you to enjoy.
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We have received so many emails from old friends and new, from all over the world, offering congratulations and good wishes.
We have been grateful too for the selfless support and promotion given by other designers who have guided us in the complexities of the market and offered wise words of advice. Barbara Hutson of Queenstown Samplers, Jackie du Plessis of Fine-ally Finished, Pam Schmidt of Prairie Sampler, Ellen Chester of With Thy Needle and Thread, Carmen Sutton of Cardan Antiques and Needlework, Moira Blackburn, Tanya Renner Brockmeyer of The Scarlet House and Melinda Cole of Merrywind Farm.
Together with Jean Lea of The Attic and Joy Jarrett of Witney Antiques who have also guided us. Their generosity of spirit is greatly appreciated.
Most of all we would like to say a HUGE THANK YOU to all of those who have purchased and stocked our first design – Miss Mary Ann Bournes.
We cannot wait to share with you several stunning samplers currently in production and due for release this year. All chosen especially for their beauty.
When putting together our designs and charts we have tried to make them unique and to do so from a stitcher’s point of view. We have taken features we love from charts we have enjoyed working from, added a few extras and got creative with our artwork to make our charts little gems to collect and cherish.
We are very open to input from our stitchers so please let us know if you would like to see any other features to make the charts even more enjoyable to work with.
Very soon we will be releasing our second chart and as a thank you to all our supporters we have a free chart of a sweet motif taken from this sampler; it would be ideal for a bookmark.  Click HERE to download.
ENJOY !!!

Detached buttonhole filling – a tutorial

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This stitch is no different to any other so don’t panic or dismiss trying it. Practice will help you understand the mechanics of the stitch. Then you will fall into its rhythm and be able to perfect your tension.

Tension is important – it is easy to work it too tightly or too loosely. Practice on a doodle cloth until you feel comfortable.

Let’s look at a symmetrical shape to practice with. An acorn cup is a good one.

The first step is to stitch out the shape of the acorn cup using double running or back stitch. I have used double running.

 

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Without piercing the fabric go under the first double running stitch and under the trailing thread.

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Go over the the loop of your working thread and pull gently.

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This completes the first button hole stitch.

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Repeat through each double running stitch until the row is complete.

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I found it useful to use my needle to prevent pulling the thread too tight and maintain an even tension across the motif.

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Ensure you include the last double running stitch.

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Take the thread down under the fabric here.

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The first row is complete.

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Repeat the whole process again starting with laying another trailing thread.

 

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Lay the last trailing thread. Anchor the last row by taking your needle not only under the buttonhole loop, the trailing thread but also under the double running stitch.

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From the back of the fabric you can see that the fabric has not been pierced by the detached buttonhole stitches.

18Let us look at a more complicated shape- a flower.

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I began by outlining the first petal in double running stitch. Then started to stitch the rows of detached buttonhole in the right hand tip.

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Don’t worry too much how the row looks as you stitch it. When adding the following row you will see the prior row take shape.  Have confidence in your work – see how the same rows look in the photo above and then the photo below.

Then I worked the left hand tip followed by a line of stitches across the entire width of the petal

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Cast on extra stitches as you work across so that there is room to add padding to the petal to give it shape.

I used ends of thread (ORTS) of the same colour, scrunched up and pushed under the stitching before the last row was stitched and then secured the petal by anchoring down the last row.

I then worked the petals either side of the first one, followed by the fourth, then finally the centre.

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Please excuse the lines on this photo.

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I used a Mill Hill petite bead to pad the petals of the little flower as they were too small to pad with thread.

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Detached Buttonhole Filling can be used to create wonderful textures and add dimension to your work. The same flower has been stitched above in satin stitch and detached buttonhole filling.

1 & 2 are acorn cups using the shape we practiced with above. The leaf marked at 3 has been padded and the leaf at 4 has no padding.

Have fun experimenting with this stitch.